Advanced Base Camp

ABC sits on a rocky base of loose moraine just a few kilometers south of the Rombok glacier in a valley at about 6200m. At this altitude, it is the highest base camp in the world - roughly at the same altitude as the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, the highest point on the African continent. At this altitude even taking 5 consecutive steps is a struggle so, although during those first glorious moments when ABC is first spotted it seems, at first sight, tantilizingly close, it is still about an hour of tricky moraine-navigation away. The highlight however is that a comfortable camp and a warm sleeping bag is at the end of it.

The Adventure Peaks camp is situated between two steep sections of loose moraine. This means that it’s well protected from the howling freezing cold wind that sounds like a stream engine rushing off the glacier and down the valley.

There are two long blue mess tents that form the main ‘hub’ of ABC social activities and camp life. Whilst we don’t bask in the lap of luxury as we do at Basecamp, the tents are well heated with a soft ‘foam-like’ insulated floor, have a long communal table seating 15-people with plastic garden chairs in each. The tents are lit by several energy efficient light bulbs which storm into operation as soon as the temperamental generators are switched into action - usually when the sun goes down and the temperatures plummet to unbearable levels.

Our bright yellow two-man tents are scattered haphazardly from about 5 - 15 metres of the mess tents separated by some treacherous terrain including the remains of an old toilet tent, a pile of old rusty fruit tins and some loose moraine. A quick trip from the mess tent to the sleeping tents easily leaves one breathless. There are 2-people per sleeping tent (a definite bonus from the warmth-perspective) and mattresses are supplied for extra comfort and to ensure a restful, blissful, 6200m nights sleep.

 My tent-buddy is Helen, a lovely English girl who is part of the Lakpari group who have joined us for the first 30 days of the expedition. Unfortunately, Helen picked up a nasty cough in Tingiri and has suffering ever since.

We have two bright blue marque-like toilet tents in the centre of camp. Reaching them is an acclimatisation process in itself as both are anon a small knoll of lose moraine. Planning to use them requires foresight (never go without toilet paper!) and a strong sense of balance to ensure that gravity doesn’t conspire against you And, most importantly, never look down, never breathe in, always bring toilet paper and never rely on the zipper to protect your sense of modesty.